Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are extremely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children do not want to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
